Embroidered book bindings at the British Library – Kathy Small

Our instructions were to meet at 11.50am having previously locked away our bags, coats etc. and carrying notebooks and pencils only plus purses and mobile phones in a transparent plastic bag, provided free. Also well-washed hands. Apparently, white gloves can do more damage to the book bindings than washed hands.

We met Karen Limper-Herz, curator, British collections 1501–1800 and were led through locked corridors. Already in the study room was a selection of exciting books. Karen had researched and written a paper on this subject which she read together with projected illustrations. After her talk we were able to look closely at all the books. These dated from the 1500s and included bibles, psalters, presentation books etc. and from the C18th and C19th, almanacs and keepsake books. Those made in England were the finest in the world.

Earlier books were bound in leather, paper, ivory, tortoiseshell and fabrics. During Elizabeth I’s reign and the Tudor period the books were printed with board covers and handed to the embroiderers who used velvet, satin, silk and canvas to cover with stitch for the final covers of the books. Velvet was a favourite and wore very well, as did any of the fabric covers once covered with stitching.

In 1561 the Broderers’ Co. was granted its charter. These professional embroiderers became very organised. Some book covers were embroidered at home in the large houses. A padding of cotton was put between the boards and the embroidered covers.

Sometimes small embroidered books have been found in their own embroidered bags, sometimes even with gloves and often a small piece of fabric with which to hold the book. The bag was protective but also a fashion accessory. Stitches found on the various covers included tapestry, cross stitch, tent, feather, chain, split, satin and beautiful goldwork. Pearls and spangles, the latter being held down by a pearl, gimp or a seed. Favourite subjects include apples, pears, strawberries, roses, carnations, tulips, lilies, daffodils, and pansies (heartsease).
When a book is acquired by the British Library it first has to go into quarantine. This is an area completely separate from the library and the book is minutely examined for insects and contaminants. Various methods are used to eradicate these. Other damage may have been caused by handling, poor storage etc.

All books should always be stored standing up and therefore a special box called a drop-back box is made especially to fit each book. Most are lined with velvet as this has an excellent surface to store embroidered books.

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